The journal
Written from the road, and honest about the parts that did not work. No listicles, no affiliate links, no destination we have not personally stood in.
LatestMountains6 min
Three days of being told my technique was fine. On the fourth, the guide stopped talking about technique altogether and pointed at a bowl of untracked snow, and that was the whole lesson.
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Underexplored7 min
Registan Square before the light hardens, and a country that has been receiving travellers for two thousand years and has never once found it remarkable that a woman arrived on her own.
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Rail and Safari8 min
Rovos Rail from Pretoria to Dar es Salaam, then straight into a tented camp on the migration. Two ways of moving slowly through a continent, and both of them work on you.
ReadSolo Travel5 min
The bit of solo travel nobody prepares you for is dinner. Here is what eleven years of doing it badly, and then less badly, has actually taught me.
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Culture6 min
The Golden Triangle compressed into seventy-two hours is a compromise, and pretending otherwise helps nobody. Here is how to make the compromise worth it.
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Mountains7 min
The marketing shows one skier on an untouched face. The reality involves a beacon drill, a lot of waiting for weather, and a fitness requirement that operators are strangely coy about.
ReadEvery entry here started as a trip somebody was not sure she should take. Tell us which one you have been circling.